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Floriculture

23826. Black-Eyed Susan Farming in Rayalaseema: A Complete Guide

Discover how to cultivate the hardy and profitable Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) in the arid Rayalaseema region. This comprehensive guide provides practical, step-by-step advice on soil preparation, irrigation, pest management,…

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A vibrant Black-Eyed Susan flower with golden petals blooming in a field in Rayalaseema, India.

Why Rudbeckia is a Golden Opportunity for Rayalaseema Farmers

For generations, the farmers of Rayalaseema have wrestled with the realities of a semi-arid climate. The red soils, the intense sun, and the unpredictable monsoons make farming a gamble. While traditional crops like groundnut, cotton, and millets are the backbone of our agriculture, relying on them alone is becoming increasingly risky. This is where practical wisdom—phronesis—tells us to look for smart diversification. We need crops that don’t just survive here but can actually thrive. Enter the Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta).

At first glance, a flower might seem like a luxury. But look closer. The Black-Eyed Susan is not just any flower; it is a symbol of resilience. Native to North America, it is famously tough, heat-tolerant, and requires significantly less water than many commercial crops. This is not a delicate English rose; this is a hardy, determined plant that fits the character of our region.

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Here’s why it represents a tangible, golden opportunity:

  • Climate Suitability: Its deep taproot seeks out moisture, and its physiology is built to withstand hot, dry spells. Where other plants wilt and fail, Rudbeckia persists. This makes it a perfect candidate for the climatic conditions of districts like Anantapur, Kurnool, Kadapa, and Chittoor.
  • Low Input, High-Value: Compared to water-intensive crops, the input costs for Rudbeckia are manageable. The primary investment is in drip irrigation, a practice that pays for itself many times over in water savings and yield improvement. As a cut flower, it commands a good price in local and city markets, offering a much higher revenue per acre than many traditional crops.
  • Market Demand: The demand for cut flowers is no longer limited to major metros. There is a growing market for fresh, locally-grown flowers for events, temples, hotels, and home decoration in our own towns and cities like Tirupati, Vijayawada, and Hyderabad. Rudbeckia, with its long vase life and cheerful appearance, is highly sought after by florists and event managers.
  • Soil Health Benefits: Far from depleting the soil, Rudbeckia can help improve it. Its extensive root system helps break up compacted soil layers, improving aeration and water infiltration. When the crop cycle is over, the plant matter can be incorporated back into the soil, adding valuable organic carbon.

Shifting a portion of your land to Black-Eyed Susan cultivation is not about abandoning tradition. It is about supplementing it with a smart, climate-resilient, and profitable alternative. It’s about using our land and water resources with greater wisdom to secure a more prosperous future.

Choosing the Right Rudbeckia: Cultivars and Plant Science

Before you sow a single seed, it is crucial to understand that not all Black-Eyed Susans are created equal. Choosing the right type—the right cultivar—is the first step towards a successful harvest. For commercial farming, you need to think about flower size, stem length, uniformity, and disease resistance.

Understanding the Species

The two main species you will encounter are:

  • Rudbeckia hirta: This is the classic Black-Eyed Susan. It is typically grown as an annual in our climate, meaning it completes its life cycle in one season. This is often an advantage for farmers, as it allows for predictable crop rotation and a quick return on investment. It produces large, showy flowers on long stems, perfect for the cut flower market.
  • Rudbeckia fulgida: This is a true perennial species, meaning it can live for several years. The most famous cultivar is ‘Goldsturm’. While it is incredibly hardy, its flowers are generally smaller and the stems shorter than the best hirta varieties. It’s an excellent choice for landscaping but less ideal for a primary cut flower business.

Our recommendation for a new grower in Rayalaseema is to start with Rudbeckia hirta. Its annual nature provides a clean slate each season and its genetics are geared towards producing premium cut flowers.

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Key Cultivars for Commercial Success

When you buy seeds, look for specific cultivar names. These have been bred for desirable traits. Here are a few excellent choices for the Indian market:

  • ‘Indian Summer’: This is perhaps the best-known cultivar for cut flowers. It produces huge, golden-yellow flowers, often up to 15-20 cm across, on sturdy, long stems. Its name itself suggests its suitability for our climate.
  • ‘Cherokee Sunset’: This variety offers a stunning mix of colours, from yellow and orange to bronze and mahogany. The flowers are often double or semi-double, giving them a unique, fluffy appearance. This variety can fetch a premium price due to its novelty.
  • ‘Prairie Sun’: This award-winning cultivar features large, golden-yellow petals with lighter, primrose-yellow tips and a distinctive green central cone instead of the usual black. It has an excellent vase life and strong stems.
  • ‘Toto’: This is a dwarf variety. While not suitable for the cut flower trade due to short stems, it’s a good option for agri-entrepreneurs targeting the potted plant market for balconies and home gardens.

Basic Plant Biology for the Smart Farmer

Understanding your crop makes you a better farmer. The Black-Eyed Susan belongs to the Asteraceae family, the same family as sunflowers and marigolds. The “flower” is actually a composite head made of two types of florets:

  • Ray Florets: These are the large, colourful “petals” on the outside. Their job is to attract pollinators.
  • Disc Florets: These make up the dark, central “eye” or cone. Each tiny bump in the cone is a small, individual floret that, after pollination, will produce a single seed.

Knowing this helps in timing your harvest. For the longest vase life, you want to cut the stem when the ray florets are fully unfurled but the central disc florets are still tight and mostly un-opened.

Soil Preparation and Land Management in Arid Conditions

Success in farming is built from the ground up. In Rayalaseema, where soils can be challenging, this is the most critical phase. Rudbeckia is adaptable, but it will not perform well in poorly prepared, waterlogged, or nutrient-deficient soil. Your goal is to create a root zone that is deep, well-drained, and fertile.

Getting the Soil Right

Black-Eyed Susans prefer a sandy loam to loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. The red soils (Alfisols) common in our region are often suitable in texture but can be low in organic matter and specific nutrients.

  1. Soil Testing: Do not skip this step. A soil test from your local Krishi Vigyan Kendra (KVK) or agricultural university is a small investment that provides invaluable information about your soil’s pH, organic carbon content, and macro/micronutrient levels.
  2. Deep Ploughing: Begin land preparation 4-6 weeks before transplanting. Plough the land deeply (2-3 times) to a depth of at least 30-40 cm. This breaks up any hardpan, improves aeration, and allows the plant’s taproot to penetrate deep into the soil profile to access moisture.
  3. Enriching with Organic Matter: This is non-negotiable for improving both the fertility and water-holding capacity of our soils. Apply a generous amount of well-decomposed Farm Yard Manure (FYM) or high-quality vermicompost.
    • Rate: Aim for 10-12 tonnes of FYM per acre. If using vermicompost, 4-5 tonnes per acre is sufficient.
    • Application: Spread the manure evenly before the final ploughing so it gets thoroughly incorporated into the soil.
  4. Basal Fertilizer Dose: Based on your soil test, apply the initial dose of chemical fertilizers. A general recommendation for a basal dose is 40 kg of Phosphorus (P) and 40 kg of Potassium (K) per acre. This translates to roughly 250 kg of Single Super Phosphate (SSP) and 65 kg of Muriate of Potash (MOP). Nitrogen should be applied in split doses later.

The Power of Raised Beds and Drip Irrigation

For a high-value crop like Rudbeckia, flood irrigation is wasteful and counterproductive. It leads to waterlogging, soil compaction, and disease. The combination of raised beds and drip irrigation is the professional standard.

Raised Beds:

  • Purpose: Raised beds ensure perfect drainage, even during a sudden heavy downpour. This is critical to prevent root rot, one of the few things that can kill a healthy Rudbeckia plant.
  • Dimensions: After the final harrowing, form raised beds that are 90 cm (3 feet) wide and about 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) high. Leave a walking path of about 45 cm (1.5 feet) between beds. This layout allows for two rows of plants per bed.

Drip Irrigation System:

  • Layout: Lay two lateral drip lines per bed, one for each row of plants. This ensures water is delivered directly to the root zone of every single plant.
  • Emitters: Use drippers with a discharge rate of 2 to 4 litres per hour, spaced 30-40 cm apart along the lateral line.
  • Mulching: Consider covering the beds with black plastic mulch after laying the drip lines. This is an excellent technique that conserves soil moisture, completely suppresses weeds, and keeps the soil warm, promoting faster growth. Holes are punched in the mulch for transplanting the seedlings.

Sowing and Propagation: A Step-by-Step Guide

Your land is ready, and you’ve chosen your cultivar. Now it’s time to bring your crop to life. For a uniform, healthy stand of plants, we strongly recommend raising seedlings in a nursery and then transplanting them to the main field. Direct sowing can be done, but it is less efficient and leads to a patchy field.

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Ideal Sowing Window for Rayalaseema

Timing is everything. You want to avoid the peak summer heat during the critical flowering stage.

  • Main Season (Rabi): Sow seeds in the nursery from late September to mid-October. Transplant seedlings to the main field in November. This allows the plants to establish during the cooler winter months and come into peak flowering from February to April, when the weather is ideal and market demand for weddings is high.
  • Second Season (Kharif): A riskier but possible window is to sow in the nursery in June, transplant in July with the onset of monsoon rains, and harvest from September to November. The risk here is heavy rain and high humidity, which can increase disease pressure.

Step-by-Step Nursery Raising

  1. Choose Your Medium: The best medium for raising seedlings is not soil. Use protrays (98 or 104 cells) filled with sterilized cocopeat. Cocopeat is sterile, holds moisture well, and provides excellent aeration for delicate new roots. If protrays are not available, you can prepare a raised nursery bed of 1m width, incorporating fine sand and sieved FYM.
  2. Seed Rate and Treatment: You will need approximately 200-250 grams of high-quality hybrid seed per acre. Before sowing, treat the seeds to protect them from fungal diseases. You can use a chemical fungicide like Thiram or Captan (2 grams per kg of seed) or a bio-agent like Trichoderma viride (4-5 grams per kg of seed).
  3. Sowing the Seeds: Fill the protray cells with cocopeat. Make a tiny depression (no more than 0.5 cm deep) in the center of each cell and place one seed inside. Rudbeckia seeds are small and need light to germinate, so do not sow them too deep. Lightly cover with a sprinkling of cocopeat.
  4. Watering and Germination: Water the trays gently using a fine rose can. Overwatering can dislodge the seeds. Cover the trays with a newspaper or plastic sheet for the first 2-3 days to maintain humidity. Place the trays in a partially shaded area or a simple shade net house. Germination will occur in 7-14 days.
  5. Caring for Seedlings: Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and ensure they get bright, indirect sunlight. Water as needed to keep the cocopeat moist but not soggy. After 2 weeks, you can start drenching the trays once a week with a very dilute solution of a water-soluble fertilizer like 19:19:19 (1-2 grams per litre of water).

Transplanting to the Main Field

Your seedlings are ready for their new home when they are 4-5 weeks old and have developed 4-6 true leaves. They should look sturdy and robust.

  1. Harden Off: For a week before transplanting, gradually expose the seedlings to more direct sunlight and slightly reduce watering. This process, called hardening off, acclimatizes them to the tough conditions of the open field and reduces transplant shock.
  2. Timing: Always transplant in the late afternoon or on a cloudy day to minimize stress on the young plants.
  3. Spacing: This depends on the vigour of your chosen cultivar. A standard spacing is 45 cm between rows and 30 cm between plants within a row. If you are using 90 cm wide beds, this allows for two rows per bed. This spacing gives each plant enough room to grow, promotes air circulation (reducing disease), and makes intercultural operations easier.
  4. Planting: Water the field and the protrays before you start. Make planting holes in the bed (or through the plastic mulch). Gently remove the seedling from the protray with its entire root ball intact and place it in the hole. Firm the soil around the root ball and irrigate immediately through the drip system.

Irrigation and Nutrient Management for Maximum Bloom

You have successfully established your crop. The next phase is about providing the precise amount of water and nutrition to transform those healthy plants into a field of gold. Here, drip irrigation (fertigation) becomes your most powerful tool.

Water Wisely, Not Wastefully

While Rudbeckia is drought-tolerant, this doesn’t mean it thrives without water. For commercial production, consistent moisture is key. Drip irrigation allows you to provide this without wastage.

  • Frequency: In the sandy loam soils of Rayalaseema, you will likely need to irrigate every 2-3 days. This can change based on the weather. A simple practical test is to feel the soil: if it’s dry 2-3 inches below the surface, it’s time to irrigate.
  • Volume: The amount of water depends on the stage of growth.
    • Establishment Phase (First 3-4 weeks): Light, frequent irrigation to help the young roots establish.
    • Vegetative Growth Phase: Increase water volume as the plant grows in size and leaf area.
    • Budding and Flowering Phase: This is the critical stage. Consistent moisture is essential for developing large flowers on long stems. Any water stress now will reduce yield and quality.

Fertigation: Feeding the Crop Through Drip

Fertigation is the practice of applying water-soluble fertilizers through the drip irrigation system. It is far more efficient than broadcasting granular fertilizers, as it delivers nutrients directly to the root zone in a readily available form. A balanced nutrient supply is vital.

A general NPK recommendation for Rudbeckia is around 80:60:60 kg of N:P:K per acre. We have already applied a part of the P and K as a basal dose. The remaining, along with all the Nitrogen, will be applied through fertigation.

Here is a sample weekly fertigation schedule. This is a general guide; you should adjust it based on your soil test report and plant appearance.

Week after Transplanting Growth Stage Fertilizer per Acre per Week Practical Wisdom
3 – 5 Active Vegetative Growth 3 kg 19:19:19 + 2 kg Urea Focus on building a strong plant frame. The balanced NPK and extra nitrogen encourage leaf and branch growth.
6 – 8 Bud Initiation 4 kg 12:61:00 (MAP) + 2 kg Magnesium Sulphate The high phosphorus from Mono-Ammonium Phosphate (MAP) is crucial for triggering flower bud formation. Magnesium is essential for chlorophyll.
9 – 14 Active Flowering & Harvest 4 kg 13:00:45 (Potassium Nitrate) + 1 kg Calcium Nitrate (apply on a different day) Potassium is the ‘quality’ nutrient. It improves flower size, colour, stem strength, and vase life. Calcium strengthens cell walls and prevents stem break.
15 onwards Continued Flowering Alternate weekly between the 19:19:19 schedule and the Potassium Nitrate schedule. Continue feeding the plant to support the continuous production of new flower stalks.

Important Note on Micronutrients: Soils in Rayalaseema are often deficient in Zinc (Zn) and Boron (B). Boron is especially critical for flower development and pollen viability. A foliar spray of a micronutrient mixture containing Zn and B at 30 and 50 days after transplanting can significantly boost flower quality and prevent malformations.

Pest and Disease Management: An Integrated Approach

Rudbeckia is a hardy plant, but it is not immune to pests and diseases. A vigilant farmer who practices Integrated Pest Management (IPM) will have far fewer problems than one who waits for an outbreak and then reaches for the strongest chemical. IPM means scouting regularly, encouraging beneficial insects, and using chemical controls as a last resort.

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Common Pests to Watch For

  • Aphids: These small, green or black insects cluster on new growth and flower buds, sucking the sap and weakening the plant. They also excrete a sticky ‘honeydew’ that can lead to sooty mould.
    • Control: For minor infestations, a strong jet of water can dislodge them. Spraying Neem oil (5 ml/litre) is an effective organic control. For severe attacks, use a systemic insecticide like Imidacloprid 17.8% SL (0.5 ml/litre).
  • Thrips: These are tiny, almost invisible insects that hide in flower buds and feed on developing petals. Their feeding causes distorted, discoloured flowers and silvery streaks on leaves. They are a major threat to flower quality.
    • Control: Monitoring with blue sticky traps is essential. At the first sign, spray Spinosad 45% SC (0.3 ml/litre) or Fipronil 5% SC (1.5 ml/litre). Rotate different chemicals to prevent resistance.
  • Leafhoppers: These wedge-shaped insects jump or fly away quickly when disturbed. They suck sap from the undersides of leaves, causing yellow stippling and ‘hopperburn’ (browning of leaf edges).
    • Control: The same systemic insecticides used for aphids (Imidacloprid, Thiamethoxam) are effective against leafhoppers.

Common Diseases and Their Management

  • Powdery Mildew: This is the most common disease, appearing as a white, dusty coating on leaves, especially during periods of high humidity and moderate temperatures. It reduces photosynthesis and weakens the plant.
    • Control: Good air circulation from proper spacing is the best prevention. At the first sign, spray wettable sulphur (3 g/litre) or a systemic fungicide like Myclobutanil 10% WP (1 g/litre).
  • Downy Mildew: This appears as yellowish spots on the upper leaf surface, with a fuzzy, purplish-grey mould on the underside. It thrives in cool, wet conditions.
    • Control: Avoid overhead irrigation. Prophylactic sprays of Mancozeb (2.5 g/litre) can be effective. For active infections, use a systemic + contact fungicide combination like Metalaxyl + Mancozeb (2 g/litre).
  • Fungal Leaf Spots (Septoria, Alternaria): These cause distinct brown or black spots on the leaves, sometimes with a yellow halo. Severe infections can defoliate the plant.
    • Control: Remove and destroy infected leaves (sanitation). Spray a copper-based fungicide like Copper Oxychloride (3 g/litre) or a broad-spectrum fungicide like Propiconazole (1 ml/litre).

The Core of IPM: Your first line of defense is always a healthy plant. A well-nourished, properly watered plant grown in good soil is naturally more resistant to pests and diseases. Scout your fields at least twice a week. Look under leaves, check new buds. Catching a problem early is half the battle won.

Harvesting, Post-Harvest Handling, and Yield

This is the moment all your hard work has been leading up to. Proper harvesting and post-harvest handling are critical to ensure your flowers reach the market in perfect condition and command the best price. A beautiful flower in the field is worthless if it wilts before it reaches the customer.

When and How to Harvest

  • Timing the Harvest: The ideal time to cut Black-Eyed Susans is in the cool of the early morning. The plants are fully turgid (filled with water), and the flowers are fresh. Avoid harvesting in the midday heat.
  • Stage of Harvest: Look for flowers where the ray petals are fully coloured and open, but the central cone is still firm and mostly green or dark brown. If you wait until the cone turns yellow with pollen, the vase life will be shorter.
  • The Right Cut: Use sharp, clean secateurs or knives. A clean cut prevents crushing the stem and allows for better water uptake. Cut the stems as long as possible, leaving a few nodes on the plant to encourage re-sprouting of new flower stalks. Make the cut at an angle to increase the surface area for water absorption.

Post-Harvest Handling: The Crucial Steps

What you do in the first hour after cutting determines the flower’s shelf life.

  1. Immediate Hydration: As soon as you cut a stem, place it in a bucket of clean, cool water. Do not leave the cut stems lying in the field. This immediate hydration is the single most important step.
  2. Pulsing (Optional but Recommended): For a longer vase life, you can ‘pulse’ the flowers. This involves placing the stems in a special solution for a few hours. A simple pulsing solution can be made with clean water and a commercial floral preservative or a homemade mix of sugar (as a food source) and a small amount of bleach or citric acid (to kill bacteria).
  3. Grading: Move the buckets to a cool, shaded packing area. Grade the flowers based on stem length, flower size, and freedom from defects. Typical grades might be A (over 60 cm stem), B (45-60 cm stem), and C (below 45 cm stem). Discard any stems with blemishes or signs of pests.
  4. Bundling and Packing: Gently strip the leaves from the lower half of the stems. Make uniform bunches of 10 or 12 stems. Secure the bunches with a rubber band. Wrap the bunches in newspaper or cellophane sleeves to protect the flower heads. Pack the bunches horizontally and snugly into ventilated cardboard boxes for transport to the market.

Yield and Economics: The Bottom Line

Now for the numbers that matter. With good management practices, a one-acre plot of Rudbeckia hirta can be very profitable.

  • Yield: A well-managed crop will start flowering about 70-80 days after transplanting and continue for 2-3 months. You can expect to harvest between 80,000 to 1,20,000 marketable flower stems per acre over the entire season. Top-tier cultivars like ‘Indian Summer’ will be at the higher end of this range.
  • Market Price: The price per stem varies greatly depending on the season, market (local vs. city), and quality. A realistic average farm-gate price range is ₹3 to ₹8 per stem. During peak wedding season, premium quality flowers can fetch even more.
  • Gross Income Potential: Let’s take a conservative estimate: 1,00,000 stems at an average price of ₹4 per stem. This translates to a gross income of ₹4,00,000 per acre in a single season of about 4-5 months.

While the initial cost of seeds and drip installation needs to be factored in, the potential return on investment is significantly higher than many traditional crops, especially considering the lower water requirement. This makes Black-Eyed Susan farming a compelling business proposition for the enterprising farmer in Rayalaseema.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Is Black-Eyed Susan a perennial in Rayalaseema’s heat? Will it grow back every year?
This is a great question. The common Black-Eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, which is best for cut flowers, is technically a short-lived perennial but is best grown as an annual in our commercial farming systems. The intense summer heat after its flowering season usually causes the plant to decline. It’s more practical and profitable to clear the field after the harvest is complete and start with fresh, high-quality seeds for the next season. This also helps in breaking pest and disease cycles.
2. Can I save my own seeds for next year’s crop?
While you can save seeds from your plants, it is not recommended if you are using hybrid cultivars like ‘Indian Summer’ or ‘Cherokee Sunset’. Seeds saved from hybrid plants will not grow ‘true to type’. The next generation will be highly variable in size, colour, and vigour, and will not have the superior qualities you paid for. For consistent, high-quality production, always purchase fresh hybrid seeds from a reputable supplier each year.
3. My flowers have small, distorted heads and some leaves are curled. What’s wrong?
This is a classic symptom of two possible problems. Most likely, it is an infestation of thrips. These tiny insects feed inside the developing flower bud, causing damage that becomes visible as the flower opens. The other possibility is a Boron deficiency, which can also cause stunted and malformed growth. The first step is to carefully inspect the buds for thrips. If you find them, immediate spraying is needed. It is also wise to apply a foliar spray of a micronutrient mix containing Boron as a preventive measure.
4. How much water does it really need compared to a crop like groundnut?
This is a key advantage. While both crops need water, Rudbeckia, when grown with drip irrigation and mulch, is far more water-efficient. Groundnut cultivation often involves flood irrigation, which uses a massive amount of water. A commercial Rudbeckia crop might use 30-40% less water than a flood-irrigated groundnut crop over its lifecycle, while potentially generating much higher revenue. The use of drip irrigation is what makes this efficiency possible.
5. What is the main market for these flowers in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana?
The market is diverse and growing. The primary buyers are wholesale flower merchants in major city markets like Gudimalkapur in Hyderabad. From there, they go to retail florists, event management companies (for weddings and corporate events), and hotel chains. There is also a strong direct-to-florist market in Tier-2 cities like Vijayawada, Guntur, Tirupati, and Kurnool. Don’t underestimate the local demand for temples and small functions, which can be a steady source of income.

Your Next Step: From Knowledge to Action

We have covered the soil, the seeds, the water, and the market. The knowledge is now in your hands. But as we say, real knowledge proves itself in action. The Black-Eyed Susan is not a miracle crop, but it is a profoundly sensible one for our region. It is a crop that rewards diligence, planning, and a commitment to modern agricultural practices.

Its resilience in the face of heat and water scarcity, combined with its high value in a growing market, makes it more than just a flower. It is a tool for diversification, a buffer against climate risk, and a pathway to greater profitability.

The practical wisdom here is to start smart. You don’t need to convert your entire farm overnight. Begin with a quarter-acre or half-acre plot. Implement the techniques we’ve discussed: prepare your soil well, install drip irrigation, use high-quality seeds, and be vigilant in your crop management. Master the cultivation on a small scale, build relationships with buyers, and understand the rhythm of the market. Once you do, you will find that this golden flower can indeed help write a new, more prosperous chapter for your farm.

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Ranjeet Natarajan

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