The Unseen Crisis: What are Food Deserts and Why Do They Exist?
In its simplest form,
food security means that every person has access to safe and fresh food at all times. However, in the United States, this is not a reality for many. An estimated 49 million Americans, or about 15% of the population, experience food insecurity daily. This is largely due to the existence of
food deserts—places where good-quality food is scarce. The problem is exacerbated in low-income, underserved communities where grocery stores might be as far as ten miles away and transportation is limited. The industrial agriculture system has contributed to this issue by focusing on profits over accessibility, leading to fewer food stores in areas that cannot support them.
A Community Takes Charge: The Inspiring Story of City Slicker Farms in Oakland
In West Oakland, where challenges like toxic soil, little public land for farming, and a lack of markets are common, a community-led response emerged to tackle food insecurity. In 2001, a group of residents began growing their own food in vacant lots. This effort grew into
City Slicker Farms, an organization with ambitious goals and programs. They now operate Community Market Farms and a Backyard Garden Program, which empowers low-income residents to grow food in their own yards. The produce from their market farms is sold on a donation-only basis, ensuring healthy food is accessible to all, regardless of their ability to pay.
From Contaminated Lots to Productive Farms: Regenerating Urban Land for a New Economy
Many of these urban farms are not just about feeding people; they are also about regenerating land. The City Slicker Farms project, for example, is transforming land that has been unused for years into a productive environment. The organization begins its Backyard Garden Program with a soil test to ensure crops can grow well. In Baltimore,
Big City Farms has successfully transformed a contaminated “brownfield” site—a former maintenance garage and parking lot—into a productive organic farm. By importing organic soil and using hoop houses, they can operate on top of the preexisting pavement. This approach demonstrates how derelict spaces can be reclaimed for a new, healthier purpose.
Beyond Charity: Building a Viable Economic Model for Urban Farms
While many urban farms rely on volunteer labor and grant funding, the book notes that this model is not economically sustainable. The challenge is to scale urban agriculture to a point where it can make a significant impact on food insecurity.
Big City Farms is attempting a new approach with a for-profit business model that aims to grow into a large network of organic urban farms. By providing resources, training, and handling business risks like distribution and marketing, they help new farmers succeed. This “triple bottom line” approach focuses on social and environmental goals in addition to profit, creating green jobs and providing fresh, healthy produce at competitive prices.
The Path Forward: Supporting Local Food Systems and Community Initiatives
The resurgence of urban agriculture is a response to concerns about rising food prices and food miles, but it is also a powerful way for people to take their health into their own hands. The book suggests that the key to moving forward is creating a robust, decentralized food system that allows for new business models to emerge. This involves:
- Changing zoning laws to allow for urban farming.
- Building a new food economy based on health, community, and ecosystems.
- Empowering communities to grow their own food and share what they have learned.
- Fostering collaborative partnerships between residents, non-profits, city officials, and entrepreneurs.
By embracing these changes, cities can build a more resilient food system and ensure that everyone has access to the healthy food they deserve
