27664. Chrysanthemum in Varanasi: Cultivation Guide

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Why Chrysanthemum in Varanasi is a Golden Opportunity

In the sacred city of Varanasi, flowers are not just a commodity; they are a vital thread in the fabric of daily life. From morning prayers at the ghats to grand temple ceremonies and vibrant weddings, the demand for fresh, beautiful flowers is constant and insatiable. Among these, the Chrysanthemum, or ‘Guldaudi’ (गुलदाउदी), holds a special place. Its long vase life, diverse colours, and suitability for both garlands and grand decorations make it a farmer’s goldmine, especially during its peak season from October to February.

While marigold has traditionally dominated the garland market, savvy farmers in the Purvanchal region are discovering the superior economics of chrysanthemum. Why? The market pays a premium for quality Guldaudi. A well-cultivated crop can yield significantly higher returns per acre than many traditional crops, offering a direct path to increased prosperity. Furthermore, the agro-climatic conditions of the Varanasi belt—the Gangetic plains with their fertile alluvial soil and distinct winter season—are exceptionally well-suited for this crop. This isn’t just theory; it’s a practical reality being demonstrated in fields across the region. This guide is your roadmap to turning that opportunity into a successful, profitable enterprise, grounded in the practical wisdom of what works right here, right now.

Choosing the Right Chrysanthemum Varieties for the Purvanchal Climate

Your first major decision, and perhaps the most important one, is selecting the right variety. This choice will dictate your cultivation practices, your target market, and ultimately, your profitability. In the Indian context, Chrysanthemums are broadly classified into two groups:

• Small-Flowered (Spray Type): These produce a large number of smaller flowers on branching stems. They are the backbone of the garland, decoration, and ‘guldasta’ (bouquet) market. They are generally hardier and higher-yielding in terms of flower weight.
• Large-Flowered (Standard Type): These are cultivated to produce one or a few very large, showy flowers per stem. They command a high price per stem in the decorative and exhibition markets but require more intensive management, particularly disbudding.

For the Varanasi market, a mix can be strategic, but if you are starting out, small-flowered varieties offer a more secure path to returns. Here are some proven varieties suitable for our region, developed by institutions like IARI, NBRI, and state agricultural universities:

Recommended Small-Flowered (Spray) Varieties:

• Poornima: A classic white, button-type chrysanthemum. Highly sought after for garlands and decorations. It’s a prolific bloomer and a market favourite.
• Bindiya: A beautiful yellow spray type. Its bright, non-fading colour makes it very popular in the market. Good yield and plant vigour.
• Basanti: Another excellent yellow variety, known for its vibrant colour and profuse flowering habit. It’s a reliable performer in North Indian plains.
• Flirt: A decorative reddish-pink variety. While white and yellow dominate, having a patch of a different colour can attract niche buyers and decorators.
• Shanti: A white decorative type released by NBRI, Lucknow. Known for its good keeping quality and high flower yield.

Recommended Large-Flowered (Standard) Varieties:

• Snowball / White Prolific: As the name suggests, this produces large, globe-shaped white flowers. It requires careful disbudding but fetches a very high price per flower.
• Raja: A large, decorative yellow variety. A true king in the exhibition category, it can be a very profitable niche if you master its cultivation.
• Chandrama: A classic large-flowered white variety. It has been a farmer favourite for years due to its reliable performance and market acceptance.

Practical Wisdom: Don’t plant just one variety. Start with 2-3 varieties, with 70% of your area dedicated to a proven, high-demand colour like white (Poornima) or yellow (Bindiya), and the remaining 30% to a secondary colour or a large-flowered type. This diversifies your risk and gives you more options when you go to the market.

Soil Preparation and Planting: The Foundation of a Healthy Crop

A plant is only as strong as the soil it grows in. For Chrysanthemum, this is doubly true. They are heavy feeders and require well-drained, aerated soil to prevent root diseases. The ideal soil is a sandy loam with a pH between 6.2 and 7.0. The soil in the Varanasi region is generally suitable but often needs amendment for optimal results.

Step-by-Step Soil Preparation:

1. Initial Ploughing (May-June): As soon as the previous crop is harvested, perform a deep ploughing (at least 20-25 cm) to expose the soil to the hot summer sun. This process, known as soil solarization, naturally kills many soil-borne pests, pathogens, and weed seeds.
2. Manure Application: About 20-25 days before planting, spread well-decomposed Farm Yard Manure (FYM) or high-quality vermicompost. The quantity is crucial: apply 10-12 tonnes per acre (approximately 25-30 tonnes per hectare). This is not a place to cut costs; good organic matter is the lifeblood of your soil.
3. Basal Fertilizer Dose: Along with the FYM, incorporate the basal dose of chemical fertilizers. A general recommendation per acre is: 25 kg of Nitrogen (e.g., ~55 kg Urea), 50 kg of Phosphorus (e.g., ~110 kg SSP or ~2.5 bags of DAP), and 30 kg of Potash (e.g., ~50 kg MOP). This should be mixed thoroughly into the soil during the final tilling.
4. Final Tilling and Bed Formation: After incorporating manure and fertilizers, use a rotavator or cultivator to break down clumps and create a fine, smooth tilth. For better water management and aeration, it’s highly recommended to plant on raised beds. The beds should be about 15-20 cm high and 90 cm wide, with a 30-45 cm channel in between for irrigation and movement.

Planting: Timing and Technique

The success of your winter flower crop is set during the monsoon. The planting material for Chrysanthemum is not seeds, but terminal cuttings or suckers.

• Source of Planting Material: Always procure healthy, disease-free rooted cuttings from a reputable nursery or a known farmer. You can also prepare your own cuttings from a mother block if you have the expertise. A good cutting should be 5-7 cm long with 4-6 leaves.
• Planting Time: The ideal window for transplanting rooted cuttings in the Varanasi region is from the last week of June to the first week of August. This timing allows the plants to establish and grow vegetatively during the rainy season before initiating flower buds as the days shorten in autumn.
• Spacing: Spacing depends on the variety and training method. A standard, effective spacing is 30 cm x 30 cm. This translates to roughly 40,000-45,000 plants per acre. For vigorous spray varieties, you might go slightly wider (e.g., 40 cm x 30 cm). Planting too close encourages disease and results in weaker stems.
• Planting Method: Plant the cuttings in the evening to reduce transplant shock. Ensure the roots are well-placed in the soil without bending. Water immediately after planting.

Mastering Nutrition and Irrigation: Feeding Your Flowers for Maximum Yield

Chrysanthemums are hungry plants. A ‘set it and forget it’ approach will lead to disappointment. A well-planned nutrition and irrigation schedule is what separates a mediocre crop from a bumper harvest.

Fertilizer Management (Top Dressing)

The basal dose provides the initial push. Subsequent applications (top dressing) fuel the plant’s growth and flowering. The timing is critical.

• First Top Dressing (30-40 Days After Planting): This is when the plant is in its active vegetative growth phase. Apply 25 kg of Nitrogen per acre (another ~55 kg of Urea). Apply it along the rows, slightly away from the plant stem, and mix it into the soil lightly, followed by irrigation. This is also a good time for the first pinching.
• Second Top Dressing (60-70 Days After Planting): This application coincides with the flower bud initiation stage. The plant now needs a balanced diet with more Potassium (K) for flower quality, size, and colour. A good practice is to apply a mix of Nitrogen and Potassium. For instance, per acre, you could apply 15 kg N (~33 kg Urea) and 15 kg K (~25 kg MOP).
• Liquid Fertilization (Optional but Recommended): For those aiming for premium quality, foliar sprays or fertigation (applying fertilizers through drip irrigation) can be very effective. Sprays of water-soluble fertilizers like 19:19:19 NPK during vegetative growth and 00:52:34 or 13:00:45 during bud formation can give excellent results. Also, address micronutrient deficiencies. A spray of a micronutrient cocktail containing Zinc, Boron, and Iron, especially if soil tests show deficiency, can prevent many hidden problems.

Irrigation: The Art of Watering

Chrysanthemum is sensitive to both water scarcity and waterlogging. The goal is to maintain consistent soil moisture without saturating the root zone, which can lead to fatal root rot.

• Method: While furrow irrigation through the channels between beds is common, it can be inefficient and promote disease spread. If the investment is possible, drip irrigation is a game-changer. It delivers water directly to the root zone, saves 40-60% water, reduces weed growth, and allows for precise fertigation.
• Frequency: The frequency depends on the soil type, weather, and plant growth stage. In the initial weeks after planting, light and frequent watering is needed. During active vegetative growth, irrigation every 7-10 days might be sufficient. During the flowering period, the water requirement increases. The key is to check the soil. If the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry, it’s time to water.
• Critical Stages: The most critical stages for water are immediately after transplanting, during active vegetative growth, and at the time of bud formation and flowering. Water stress during these periods can severely reduce both the quantity and quality of your flowers.

Essential Cultural Practices: Pinching, Disbudding, and Staking

This is the hands-on part of chrysanthemum cultivation where technique and skill directly translate into more flowers or bigger flowers. These are not optional steps; they are essential for commercial success.

Pinching: For More Flowers

Pinching means removing the growing tip of the main stem. Why? It breaks the apical dominance, forcing the plant to send out side branches. More branches mean more flowers. It’s the primary technique for spray-type (small-flowered) varieties.

• When to Pinch: The first pinch is done when the plant is about 15-20 cm tall, roughly 4 weeks after planting.
• How to Pinch: Using your thumb and forefinger or a clean blade, simply remove the top 2-3 cm of the main shoot.
• Single vs. Double Pinching: For most spray varieties, a single pinch is sufficient. For very vigorous varieties or to prolong the flowering season, a second pinch can be performed on the new side shoots about 30 days after the first one. However, this will delay flowering.

Disbudding: For Bigger Flowers

Disbudding is the opposite of pinching. It is the removal of unwanted buds to channel all the plant’s energy into a single, large flower. This is done exclusively for standard-type (large-flowered) varieties like Snowball or Raja.

• When to Disbud: Start as soon as the flower buds are large enough to handle without damaging the main bud. You will see a central, larger bud (the terminal bud) and several smaller buds (axillary buds) below it on the same stem.
• How to Disbud: Carefully remove all the side buds, leaving only the single large terminal bud at the top of each stem. This process needs to be repeated every few days as new buds emerge. It is labour-intensive but essential for getting those premium-priced large blooms.

Staking: For Support

As the chrysanthemum plant grows heavy with branches and flowers, it is prone to ‘lodging’—bending and breaking, especially in wind or rain. Staking provides physical support to keep the plants upright, ensuring clean, undamaged flowers and good air circulation.

• Method 1 (Individual Staking): For large-flowered varieties where each stem is valuable, individual stakes (thin bamboo sticks) are tied loosely to each main stem.
• Method 2 (Netting or String Support): This is more practical for large-scale cultivation of spray types. Bamboo poles are fixed at the ends and at intervals along the beds. Wires or nylon strings are then stretched between the poles at different heights (e.g., 30 cm, 60 cm) to create a support system that the plants can grow through. This is highly effective and saves labour compared to individual staking.

Integrated Pest and Disease Management (IPM): Protecting Your Investment

Your field is an ecosystem, and pests and diseases are a part of it. The goal of IPM is not to eradicate them entirely with harsh chemicals, but to manage them below the economic threshold level using a combination of cultural, biological, and chemical methods.

Common Pests:

• Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new shoots and buds, sucking the sap. They cause yellowing and distortion. Control: For minor infestations, a strong jet of water can dislodge them. Neem oil spray (5 ml/litre) is effective. For severe cases, use systemic insecticides like Imidacloprid 17.8% SL (0.5 ml/litre) or Thiamethoxam 25% WG (0.5 g/litre).
• Thrips: Tiny insects that hide in flowers and buds, causing distorted flowers with brown edges. Control: Blue sticky traps can help monitor and reduce populations. Chemical control includes Fipronil 5% SC (1 ml/litre) or Spinosad 45% SC (0.3 ml/litre).
• Leaf Miner: You will see their tell-tale sign: white, serpentine trails within the leaves. This damages the leaf’s photosynthetic ability. Control: Remove and destroy affected leaves at the first sign. Spraying Neem oil can deter the adult flies. For heavy infestation, Cyromazine 75% WP can be effective.

Common Diseases:

• Rust (Puccinia chrysanthemi): Appears as small, brown, powdery pustules on the underside of leaves. It can defoliate the plant quickly. Control: Avoid overhead irrigation. Ensure good air circulation through proper spacing. Remove infected leaves immediately. Spray fungicides like Mancozeb 75% WP (2.5 g/litre) or Propiconazole 25% EC (1 ml/litre).
• Powdery Mildew: A white, powdery coating on leaves, stems, and flowers, common in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Control: Improve air circulation. Spray wettable sulphur (2 g/litre) or specialized fungicides like Myclobutanil or Hexaconazole.
• Root Rot (Pythium, Fusarium): The most dangerous disease, causing wilting and death of the plant. It’s caused by waterlogged, poorly drained soil. Control: Prevention is the only cure. Use raised beds, ensure perfect drainage, and avoid over-irrigation. Drenching the soil with Metalaxyl+Mancozeb (2 g/litre) or Trichoderma viride (a beneficial fungus, 10g/litre) can help protect the roots.

Practical Wisdom: Prevention is always better and cheaper than cure. Start with clean planting material, prepare your soil well for drainage, don’t overcrowd plants, and scout your field regularly to catch problems early.

Month-by-Month Cultivation Calendar for Varanasi Region

This checklist provides a practical, at-a-glance timeline for your chrysanthemum crop.

Harvesting, Post-Harvest, and Reaching the Varanasi Market

This is where your hard work pays off. Proper harvesting and post-harvest handling are crucial to get the best price.

• Harvesting Stage: For spray types intended for garlands or loose flower sales, harvest when the flowers are fully open. For bouquets and decoration (cut flowers), harvest when 2-3 rows of petals have unfolded and the centre is still tight. For standard (large-flowered) types, harvest when fully open.
• Harvesting Technique: Harvest in the cool hours of the early morning or late evening. Cut the stems with a sharp knife or secateurs, leaving a stem length of at least 20-30 cm for cut flowers. Place the cut stems immediately in a bucket of clean water.
• Post-Harvest Handling: Move the harvested flowers to a cool, shaded area. Grade them based on flower size, stem length, and freshness. Remove the lower leaves that would be submerged in water. Recut the stem ends under water to prevent air bubbles from blocking water uptake.
• Packing: Loose flowers are traditionally packed in bamboo baskets (tokri) lined with moist cloth or newspaper. For high-value cut flowers, bunch them in dozens and pack them in cardboard or CFB (corrugated fibre board) boxes to prevent damage during transport.
• Selling in Varanasi: The primary wholesale market is the Maidagin flower market (phool mandi). Be there early in the morning for the best prices. You can sell to wholesalers, who then distribute to retailers, or directly to retailers, temple suppliers, and event management companies for better margins. Build relationships. A reliable supplier of high-quality flowers will always have buyers.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. How much can I earn from one acre of chrysanthemum cultivation?

Profitability varies greatly based on variety, yield, market rates, and your management skill. A well-managed acre can yield 6-8 tonnes (60-80 quintals) of loose flowers. With an average rate of ₹60-100/kg (which can go much higher during festival seasons like Diwali or for weddings), the gross income can range from ₹3.6 lakh to over ₹8 lakh. After deducting cultivation costs of ₹1-1.5 lakh per acre, a net profit of ₹2 lakh to ₹6.5 lakh is achievable, which is significantly higher than many traditional crops.

2. Can I grow chrysanthemum in pots for my rooftop?

Absolutely! Chrysanthemum is an excellent potted plant. Use a 10-12 inch pot with a good potting mix (soil, compost, and cocopeat in equal parts). All the principles of pinching, nutrition, and pest control apply on a smaller scale. It’s a great way to learn the plant’s habits before going for large-scale cultivation.

3. How do I get planting material? Should I use seeds or cuttings?

Never use seeds for commercial cultivation. Chrysanthemum varieties are hybrids and will not grow true-to-type from seed. You must use vegetative propagation. The best method is to buy disease-free, rooted terminal cuttings from a government nursery, agricultural university, or a reputable private nursery. This ensures you get the exact variety you want with a healthy start.

4. My flower buds are small and some are not opening. What is the problem?

This can be due to several factors. The most common are: 1) Nutritional deficiency, especially Potassium (K) and Boron (B), during the bud development stage. 2) Water stress at the critical bud formation time. 3) A heavy infestation of thrips or bud borers that damage the buds from within. Check for pests, ensure your late-season fertilizer application is adequate, and maintain consistent moisture.

5. What is the main difference between pinching and disbudding?

They are opposite techniques for different goals. Pinching is removing the top growing point to encourage side branches and thus get more, smaller flowers. It’s used for spray types (guldasta/garland varieties). Disbudding is removing the side flower buds to direct all energy into the main bud to get one, very large flower. It’s used for standard types (exhibition varieties).

6. Which variety is best for making garlands?

For garlands, you need flowers that are uniform, durable, and produced in large numbers. The white button-type ‘Poornima’ is the undisputed market leader for this purpose. Its pure white colour, perfect size, and high yield make it the top choice for the garland industry in and around Varanasi.

The Final Word: From Knowledge to Action

This guide has laid out the science and the practical steps for successful chrysanthemum cultivation. But knowledge is only potential power; its real value is in action. The demand for flowers in Varanasi is not just a market trend; it’s a deep-rooted cultural certainty. By combining the right variety with diligent soil preparation, timely nutrition, and smart pest management, you can tap into this certain demand.

Your first season will be your greatest teacher. Start with a manageable area, follow these principles, keep records, and learn from your field. The path from a rooted cutting in July to a handful of cash at the Maidagin market in December is a journey of hard work and attention to detail. But for the dedicated farmer, it is one of the most rewarding and profitable paths in modern floriculture. The opportunity is ripe. The knowledge is here. The rest is up to you.

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